Let’s talk windows shall we! I always say that “the widows in the room are like the eyebrows to the face, they frame and soften when done right.” If they are short and thin they make the face look disproportionate, or if they or full and overstuffed they can make the face look like the person is sad all the time. I sometimes walk into a clients home and they have hung the drapes to low or to tight within the window making the window seem tiny. Or the my favorite is the high-water look when the drapes are clearly 3″-6″ off the floor cutting the overall length of the room in half. There is a good rule of thumb when addressing windows. I prefer to hang rods as high and as wide as I can get in order to make the window look taller then it actually is. I mean, don’t we all want to look a little leaner and taller then we really at times? The same principals apply for your windows. This dose several things besides adding width and depth it adds texture and warmth.
Now, let’s talk about the expense of drapes. For me there are three types. The first being the least costly the second you will spend a little more, and the last would be the most .
1. Ready Made – off the rack and come in these sizes common window lengths 24″, 30″, 36″, 38″, 45″, 54″, 63″, 72″, 81″ or 84″, & 95″ All curtains are measured by width and drop (i.e., 46” width x 54” drop). If you’re buying pairs, the size referred to is usually for each curtain, not the two of them. The measurements are when laid flat not gathered. $$
2. Semi Made – off the rack and then embellishments are added such as decorative banding or additional fabrics in order to make the panel just the right length for your room. $$$
3. Custom- This is when you really cannot find what you are looking for and you create it, or that you have floor to ceiling windows that over exceed 120″ then you have to go this route. $$$$
How to calculate for yardage:
1. Measure length, in inches, from the top of the curtain rod to the desired window covering length: floor, window sill or longer to “puddle” on the floor.
2. Add bottom hem allowances and double that for the heading at the top of the drapes. For the bottom hems, add double the desired hem to the finished length. Typical drapery hem depth is 4 inches; thus 8 inches would be added to the overall length. Generally, sheer or lightweight fabrics should include a 5- to 6-inch double hem by adding 10 to 12 inches to the total length. Short curtain panels or a valance should include a 1- to 3-inch double hem, meaning 2 to 6 inches added to the measured length. The final number is the cut length.
3. Measure the curtain rod width and add 7 inches for overlaps when drapes are closed.
4. Add 2 to 2 1/2 times the finished width for drapery fullness for medium to heavy fabrics. Add 2 1/2 to 3 times the finished width for lightweight to sheer fabrics.
5. Multiply the finished drapery width by the desired fullness. Divide that number by the width of the fabric. The resulting number is the number of panels needed.
6. Multiply the number of panels needed by the cut length. Divide that figure by 36. The result is the number of yards needed for the draperies.
Popular Heading Styles:
Relaxed Pleat, Natural Pleat, Grommet Top,
Inverted Pleat, Pinch Pleat 2 Fold, Pinch Pleat 3 Fold, Rod Pocket and Plain Pleat
Lastly, think of lining types as well. Consider light control for the room and if you need back-out or thermal lining . Black-out is something to consider for movie watching and family areas where the light may shine in causing glare at cretin times of the day.
Elle Decor Magazine
Designer’s Featured: Toby Fairly, Amanda Nisbet, Barrie Benson, Mary McDonald and Massucco Warner Miller